Wooden Garden Gates
How do I open swollen wooden gate’s in the garden ?
Our drive gates have swollen in the recent weather, and whilst the car is raring to go we cant get the gates open as they are well and truly swollen – have even tried lifting them to open them with no luck – any suggestions??
Force, try tapping it top and bottom with a sledge hammer, that is without smashing them.
Wooden Garden Gates
Tips For Choosing Wrought Iron Gates
A wrought iron garden gate can bring splendid beauty and charm to the decor of your home. However, you might be in a dilemma about choosing a gate- what type of gate is suitable? Whether a wood gate is good or a metal one? Why spend more money on a wrought iron gate? How to deal with the gate fabricators? These are only some questions that might bother you. Here are certain tips for helping you choose the right gate for right impression and of course, ultimate safety.
- If your driveway has a shorter width, you can go for a wooden gate. However, If the driveway is wide enough (greater than 10 feet in width), then the gate should be strong enough to span that distance. A wrought iron gate serves your purpose here. The weight of the wood naturally causes the gate structure to sag whereas a wrought gate is held together by welds and is more stable at joints.
- Wrought iron gates can be kept intact for many years. Just ensure that the pillars used for securing them are built with a proper base.
- After deciding the material of gate, measure the area where you wish to place a gate. Either a driveway or a walk gate, size is always important to your design.
- Decide about your style and budget. You can consult an ornamental wrought iron catalog which can be an online catalog too. You can even consult with a gate fabricator who are well-versed and can help you in designing process according to your home’s layout.
- Decide at this stage only, whether you want the gate to open the gate manually or with automatic gate opener. A bracket has to be attached to the gate if you want an automatic gate opener.
- Seek quotes from various wrought iron gate manufacturers/fabricators. Get the details about the quote and how the final price will be determined. This is required to keep your budget on track.
- Once you accept a bid on the basis of received quotes, call the fabricator to visit the job site and take precise measurements. They are must for calculating scale and to ensure your gate meets any applicable codes.
- Review the final drawing of the gate made by the fabricator. It should be proportionately spaced and must have all elements of the finished gate drawn.
Before getting your gate installed, also know about gate installation basics to help you supervise the work properly.
About the Author
Deepa RC recommends reading more about wrought iron gates at http://www.wrought-iron-crafts.com/wrought-iron-garden-gates.html, the B2B marketplace for wrought iron craft companies. It also contains useful tips and information about home decor and interior decor.
how to block up a doorway?
I have an outhouse on side of kitchen, want to make it into bedroom for eldest child, it has 2 outside doors one at each end of room, am damp proofing floor and is cold room, am looking for cheap option to close in the wooden garden gate type doors, does anyone have any ideas how to make the doors so no draughts get through. They are solid wood doors. can i just insulate from behind doors or would i have to brick them up. Not much money to spare so trying to make it spread to as many jobs as can. Is really cold room in winter being just 1 brick thick, am hoping once floor done and something done to doors and rad added the room will be livable.
If these started as exterior doors, you may leave them exposed and insulate from the inside. *BUT* there are a few things to keep in mind:
You will need to give those doors a good coat of paint and caulk the perimeter with good exterior-grade caulk. If you want to remove and fill the hardware (lock) penetrations that would help as well, before you paint of course. Make sure that they are securely shut, of course.
When you insulate from the inside, you should also caulk the inside of the door, add the insulation and be very, very sure you install a good vapor barrier across the entire door and past the frame. This will prevent condensation from getting into the wall cavity behind the door and eventually rotting the sill. In general, if you are trying to vapor-proof and insulate the room, you should install a vapor barrier on the warm side to prevent condensation. The worst thing you can do is insulate without a vapor barrier as then the dew-point will be somewhere within the insulation itself and this could turn very nasty in short order. Keep in mind that people, pets and plants exhale large amounts of moisture summer and winter so even if the air inside your house feels dry in the winter time, there is enough moisture to condense in cold air – if you can see your breath outside, you get the idea.
Your best method of insulation would be to add studs on the inside to some thickness that you can afford, install good-quality insulation, then add a monolithic (uniform) vapor barrier such as visqueen or-equal with special attention to receptacles, windows, doors and other possible penetrations. Then you can either use gypsum wallboard (drywall) or some other finish over that. But be sure you insulate the floor, walls and ceiling in the same way (vapor barrier on the warm side). There are vapor-barrier paints and floor underlayments that serve the purpose as well.
As to adding radiation – you understand that radiators heat primarily by radiation, and they also function against drafts by countering convection on cold surfaces. Whatever type of radiators you have in the rest of the house should be duplicated for the new one – mixing fin-tube with cast iron or flat-plate types is not a very good idea as fin-tube heats by convection, not by radiation and has almost no mass to store residual heat. There are many relatively inexpensive sources of compatible radiators these days – see “sources” below. And you can also add a thermostatic valve so as not to overheat the room when it is not in use. And if you are extending iron pipes with copper, I would strongly suggest dielectric unions between the two materials to prevent electrolysis. This is rarely a problem but if any of the fittings are blind you don’t want to find out the hard way.
Summary: Vapor barrier. Compatible radiation. Dielectric unions
Somerlap Garden Products – Gates & Sheds